How to Install Laminate Flooring Step by Step Guide for DIY
Laminate flooring is designed for DIY installation. The click lock system makes it possible for a homeowner to install a room in a day. But there are important differences from SPC installation that you need to know.
Tools You Need
Tape measure, utility knife, tapping block and pull bar, spacers 8mm to 10mm, rubber mallet, circular saw or jigsaw with fine tooth blade, safety glasses and knee pads.
Step 1 Prepare the Subfloor
The subfloor must be clean, dry, and flat. Use a 2 meter level to check flatness. Maximum allowable variation is 3mm over 2 meters. For concrete subfloors, install a moisture barrier of 6 mil polyethylene film. For wood subfloors, use a foam underlayment. Unlike SPC, laminate requires underlayment in all installations. The underlayment provides moisture protection and sound reduction.
Step 2 Acclimate the Planks
Laminate planks need to acclimate to the room temperature and humidity before installation. Place unopened cartons in the room for 48 hours. Keep the room temperature between 18 and 25 degrees Celsius during acclimation. Skip acclimation and your laminate floor may gap or buckle later.
Step 3 Lay the Underlayment
Roll out the underlayment across the entire room. Overlap seams by 2 to 3 inches and tape them. Trim excess along the walls. Do not use underlayment thicker than 3mm for laminate. Thicker underlayment can cause the locking system to fail.
Step 4 Plan the Layout
Measure the room width and calculate the width of the last row. If the last row is less than 2 inches wide, adjust the first row so both the first and last rows are similar width. Plan to stagger the end joints by at least 12 inches between rows. A random stagger pattern looks best.
Step 5 Install the First Row
Place spacers against the wall to maintain the expansion gap. Laminate requires a larger expansion gap than SPC: 8mm to 12mm around all walls. Place the first plank with the groove side facing the wall. Connect the end of the second plank to the first at a 20 degree angle and press down to lock. Continue across the room.
Step 6 Install Remaining Rows
Start each row with the offcut from the previous row to create a staggered pattern. Connect the long side of the plank to the previous row at a 20 degree angle and press down. Use a tapping block to ensure tight joints. Use a pull bar for the last row near the wall.
Step 7 Cut Planks Around Obstacles
Measure and mark cutouts for door frames and pipes. Cut with a jigsaw for curved cuts. Leave 8mm to 12mm expansion gap around all obstacles. Slide the plank under door frame casing for a clean look.
Step 8 Install Trim
Remove spacers after installation. Install quarter round or baseboard to cover the expansion gap. Install T-moldings at doorways between rooms. Install reducer strips where laminate meets a lower flooring surface.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Not acclimating the planks. Using underlayment that is too thick. Not leaving enough expansion gap. Not staggering the end joints enough. Using a hammer directly on the plank use a tapping block.
How Laminate Installation Differs From SPC
Laminate needs underlayment in all installations. SPC with attached pad does not. Laminate needs a larger expansion gap. Laminate is more sensitive to moisture during installation. Laminate planks are heavier and more difficult to cut cleanly.
About PROLEADER
PROLEADER laminate flooring comes with installation guides and video instructions. Contact us for installation support.
